Then on the back of the main PCB I tinned the GND and 3V3 soldering pads and connected them to respective pins of the USB-to-TTL UART converter cable. According to the Tasmota documentation you should also be able to simply keep the button pressed while powering on, which should pull the IO0 pin to ground also. Both are shorted with the same jumper cable, which is apparently necessary to get the device into a mode where it can be flashed. Make sure to tin your soldering tip as well as the ends of the jumper cable. Soldering pad for IO0 the other end of the same jumper wire soldered to it.Soldering pad for GND with a jumper wire soldered to it.So first I shorted the GND and IO0 soldering pads on the back of the ESP board using a jumper wire, which I soldered on. The cables normally connected to mains are soldered and you can only move the main PCB so much. By gently pulling the clamps on either side you can unlock the main PCB from its fixed position. The board of my Gosund SP1 showed SP1-C_V2.4 with a timestamp 20181101 as the hardware revision. Triangular bit for the triangle screws of the casing.Any method which can be used to flash an ESP (another ESP usually works fine), I ended up using the FTDI-based DSD Tech SH-U09C5 USB-to-TTL UART converter cable which can be configured for 3.3 V via a jumper 1.That was still of a surprisingly moderate difficulty, but definitely more challenging overall.Īll my steps I attempted from a Ubuntu 20.04. The device ended up in some strange state from which I was unable to recover it. The part which I accidentally forgot for one out of four SP1 plugs was to connect some other device to the vtrust-flash access point prior to attempting flashing the smart plug. Make sure to have it install all prerequisites and after that execute start_flash.sh and read as well as follow the instructions given. Use a recent Ubuntu or any of the alternatives described on the tuya-convert project page. The easy way, whenever it works, is great. Tasmota is likely on your radar already and you’re trying to flash a Tuya-based ESP device with Tasmota. So, one plug down, 7 to go.If you ended up here it’s because you’re a subscriber or a web search led you here. I had another template that I had used to flash the earlier models and it worked fine. One thing I did find was that the template did not work for me. Took all of 3 minutes to make the security screw tool. It was very quick, very accurate and worked like a charm. I cut a slot in every second side of the Allen Key, using the angle grinder. After unsuccessfully trying to file an Allen key to shape it dawned on me that the very thin metal cutting blades that you can get for angle grinders these days, might just do the trick. It was the securing screws that had me stumped but with a slight modification to the method I was able to open the unit and gain access to the inner-workings. I came across this page and decided to have a crack at opening one up and flashing with a hard connection. The older ones worked fine, but it appears that they have since patched the vulnerability that allowed ota flashing. I tried to use tuya convert ota on a new purchase of these plugs.
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